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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee renowned award-winning names. However, nestled prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a far-flung part of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest place earning such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its former character. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary triumph.